Lofoten Islands - photographer’s paradise

When I got off the train in Narvik the plain clothes boarder police, two young men, questioned me, where I have been, what am I doing, how long do I plan to stay, do I have a place to stay tonight, and how much money do I have. They throughly inspected my passport which didn't match my story. I said I came straight to Oslo but had no Norway stamp on my passport, only Netherlands. Oh, I forgot I had a two hour layover and that is where I cleared customs. I was so at ease that they soon got friendly with me. First they told me I came to the most spectacular place in Norway and they highly recommend that I rent a car so I can get off the main roads of the bus route. No thank you, this trip is about observing easy, low cost travel.

The next morning I got on-line and rented a car and a room in Svolvær. I guess I had forgotten that my intention sisters also included in their intentions for this trip that I discover the full spectrum of my capibilities. Renting a car was very scary for me. I no longer have Monica advising me; I'm on my own. Wait - I've just spent the past month solidifying my trust in myself - let's go for it.

After hiking across town and a bridge (bridges everywhere!!!) the receptionist at the hotel I had chosen taught me how to use the Easy Park app to pay for my parking on my phone, drew me a map how to walk to the car rental place and mentioned several stories about the "hillbilly criminals" only an hour away and filled me with suspicion on the rental company. I'd already paid for the car. So I went in search of it. My room wasn't ready yet so she allowed me to store my backpack in the unlocked luggage room. Did I mention there are no street signs on the streets? However, ocassionally (well maybe more often and I just don't know how to find them) the name of the street is on the top of the corner building.

I thought I'd found the car rental place but it was - almost the same name only slightly different- the one that the hotel receptionist said was so friendly, accommodating, fair and helpful. Kenneth Jensen, (on his card he called himself Daily Adventurer), of Lofoten Rental Car. If you ever come here be sure to contact Kennth, he's precious. So first he told me exactly how to find the car I'd already paid for, then he wrote out on a sheet of paper all the places I need to drive, (all the must sees) how long between them and how easy it would be for me. "We have no stop lights, or round abouts. It will be easy. Just be sure to slow down when you turn off the main road and pull over if you meet another car." Then he reviewed the contract I had with his competitor and told me, "You'll be very happy with this car, it's a very fair price." I expressed my gratitude and reluctance about driving, saying I would start out in the morning. Before he sent me off, he said, "Go now! It's early (3 pm) You've got lots of time Just head out that way, past the building right there."

So that I did! I drive in Norway, through a mountain, a long tunnel, over lots of water, several bridges, on narrow roads, parked and paid on my phone, I was unrecognizable to myself! Now I know why Eleanor Roosevelt advised to do something everyday that scares you. Not only is it thrilling but you learn what you are capable of!

Norway is tidy, techy and trees!!!! Norway is filled with water, wonders and woods! The quaking aspens on Lofoten Islands are already turning yellow. The contrast with the green and the still blooming pinks and purples along the side of the road was stunning.

I had to remind myself to breathe as the beauty left me stunned. The water was like a mirror so the beauty was double. I couldn't tell where the landscape ended and the water began.

I had a late night planned so drove back to the hotel, checked in and took a nap. This was the most I had spent on a room since arriving in Norway. It was okay, I planned to stay at a campground the following night. My $85 room in Narvik, that Monica booked for me, was perfect, exceptionally comfortable and included an amazing breakfast!!! This room, my first night in Lofoten, was without heat (at least I couldn't figure it out.). even the bathroom floor heat wasn't working. All bathroom floors are heated. I didn't really need it. I sleep with my long underwear on under my sleep clothes and used two duvets. I sleep well after I got back to the hotel after midnight.

I had purchased an excursion to try to chase down the northern lights. I went early to make sure I knew where I was going. That way I could drive in the daylight. The meeting place was a a hotel that rented out fishing cabins attached to a renowned restaurant that served stockfish. I had just had my fill of a hearty peanut butter sandwich less than an hour before so that wasn't an option this evening. The receptionist was quite friendly and was sharing his experience on the island. I ask him about campgrounds and not sure how but with everyone talking about rain the next day, his offering to mark down the cottage and the idea of eating stockfish the next night, I changed my camping plans and booked Cottage 16 and made reservations for dinner at 7 the following evening. That was higher cost than the first night and the first stay that didn't include breakfast.

Odd-Petter Tanke Jensen, tour guide, it says in his card, owner of Discover Lofoten AS, showed up and told the 6 of us who had signed up that our chances of seeing the Northern Light on Saturday night we're about 5%. Lower chance on Sunday and better chance on Monday. The couple who was staying longer opted to move their reservation to Monday. The four of us who would not be here through Monday night all choose to take the risk and try. Odd-Petter ( he said we could just call him Peter) explained in detail all the factors that make her dance in the sky, proton levels, elasticity, and magnetism. However, the cloud cover can either make it more interesting or block the view. When I asked about the moon light (which happened to be 100% full on this evening) drowning out the effect he said "that's bullshit". He explained how the moonlight enhances the lighting. He also said the full moon brings the sea into town. The man, full of knowledge and full of fascinating stories never stopped taking for three full hours. He took us to several sights and we searched and searched. He had special cameras that could see though the clouds and at one point, when the clouds broke in the sky enough to see the handel of the Big Dipper, he saw green. We didn't. But we did get our moneys worth in the adventure. He said the intensity of the lights are on an eleven year cycle and will peak again in 2025 & 2026. They had just seen five spectacular days of dancing skys the night befor I arrive. I took it as I sign to make travel plans to return.

The next morning, feeling less than spectacular, I set off in my car to tour the island. I saw Haukland beach. Kenneth said it's one of Europes top ten best beaches. I stopped to do a bit of energetic hygiene and gave all my past to the sea. It washed away all my concerns.

I continue to be blown away how clear the water is. It's hard to show in a photo because you can't see the water. Checking off off each item on the list Kennth wrote out for me, I was over half way to the final destination. I was tired and it was raining so I turned around and headed back to Cottage 16, at the Svinøya Rorbuer, to rest before my dinner reservation. This cabin had to be more than 100 years old; I asked for heat. They brought an extension cord to plug in the space heater on the wall.

The nap was wonderful, the dinner was amazing!!! I could have just eaten the bread which was served with seaweed infused butter. But the stockfish served with fennel and an amazing sauce was a flavor explosion.

The above photo is what a stockfish looks like before he is cooked. I was cozily sleeping that night when the water slapping the rocks outside my bedroom window, woke me up, I opened the widow and let myself be soothed by the sound. A comforting peace radiated through me. It was at that moment I knew I had chosen the perfect place to spend the night. The next morning I looked out and the water was gone! I guess that is what Odd-Petter meant about the full moon. I checked out and headed back out on the highway. By now I'm familiar with the route. This time I drove all the way to Reine Å. It was quite cloudy and raining most of the trip but by now I'm fresh and vibrating at a high frequency, feeling the freedom of stopping whenever I wanted to to snap a photo instead of through the window of a moving bus. Feeling free, I even stopped at a Co-op to stick up on some provisions.

When I got back to town and filled the car up with desiel (two two stations and lots of questions but I got it nearly full) I managed to figure out what to do with the keys. I never did see the guy who rented it to me but I sent him a text thanking him and letting him know how much I appreciated the car, it was really nice - way more than what I paid for. As I was walking back across town with my ( by now at least 31 pounds again) backpack- which Greta was right, I did get used to to it - I stopped off at Kenneth's place, Lofoten Rental Car. At first he didn't remember me but I said, " Two things I want to say. One, you probably already know, but everyone in town has wonderful things to say about you. You have a reputation of the highest integrity. Several people said so. And second, I want to thank you for your kindness! You gave me confidence and because you said I will be happy with the car, I decided that was a good idea, I definitely was!" Even though I didn't rent a car from Kenneth, I have enough experience to give him a Five star review on google.